What is overprocessing and how to avoid it?
ADVANCED PROCESSING TIMES - Leaving lotions on the lashes for too long might cause them to split and frizz. This may not happen right away, but over time, the lashes will begin to display signs of damage (it might be only a few hours up to 24 hours later or it might be a week or two later). It's not always possible to tell if a client's lashes are strong just by looking at them; you might notice that the lashes are more resistant to rolling back onto the rod, which could indicate that they have a stronger lash core. Similarly, they may have said that their hair is really fine or keeps a curl exceptionally well, implying a finer hair structure and a speedier processing time. Medications and hormonal changes can also affect the strength and resilience of a client's lashes.
When using Elleebana products for the first time, the typical rule of thumb is to process step 1 (lifting lotion) for 6 minutes and step 2 (setting lotion) for 5 minutes. This processing time will work for the vast majority of your clients, and it's a terrific place to start if you have clients with medium to strong-looking lashes.
SHORT PROCESSING TIMES - A client's ethnicity or heritage may suggest a faster or slower processing time. By simply looking at the lashes, other more visible lash conditions/health can be detected. Reduce your first-time processing time for fine lashes that are thin, sparse, or lighter in color, or for ethnicities whose lash strength is inherently softer or finer. In some circumstances, reducing the processing time for step 1 (lifting lotion) to 4 minutes and step 2 (setting lotion) to 3 minutes can still produce great results for clients with lashes that require this reduction in processing time. For natural lashes that are visually thinner or weaker, some processing time possibilities include:
LIFT: 3 mins SET: 2 mins – this is not a common processing time for many clients
LIFT: 4 mins SET: 3 mins
LIFT: 5 mins SET: 4 mins
AVERAGE PROCESSING TIMES – This is the majority of our customers, and we've seen that these processing times are frequently the go-to times for lifting clients with average lash strength, thickness, and density, as well as those whose lashes lift readily. We can now raise the processing time for step 1 (lifting lotion), but the setting time must remain at 5 minutes.
LIFT: 6 mins SET: 5 mins – used for the majority of all first time and returning clients
LIFT: 7 mins SET: 5 mins – this might be used on clients who return after their first lift and they feel their lift wasn’t enough (alternatively you can decrease your rod size)
EXTENDED PROCESSING TIMES - If a client's lashes are thicker than typical and you've tried processing at 6 and 5 minutes and found that their lashes didn't lift enough, you can increase your lifting time by 1 minute at a time in your next visit. The setting time (step 2) must be kept at 5 minutes until the lifting lotion processing time reaches its maximum. Consider the following example:
LIFT: 7 mins SET: 5 mins
LIFT: 8 mins SET: 5 mins
LIFT: 9 mins SET: 5 mins – this is a very rare required processing time
LIFT: 10 mins SET: 5 mins – this is an extremely rare required processing time
Only after all of these attempts and appointments would you then increase the setting lotion to 6 mins
SAME APPOINTMENT RE-LIFT PROCESSING TIMES If you conduct a lash lift on a client and the lift does not take as well as you or your client would want, you can re-lift the client's lashes in the same appointment; however, your processing time must be reduced by half or less.
NOT ENOUGH OF A LIFT If you elevated a client's lashes for 6 minutes and 5 minutes, dried them fully, and inspected them, and there was some obvious lift but not enough of a result, you would reprocess the lashes for 2 minutes of lifting and 2 minutes of setting.
NOT VISIBLE LIFT AT ALL In the case that your client’s lashes after lifting for 6 mins and 5 mins and you have assessed the dried state of the lashes and there is no visible lift you may proceed with re-lifting the lashes again for 3 mins and 2.5 mins If the client has left the salon and time has passed since the treatment (at least 24 hours) you would need to consider the result and the condition of the client’s lashes before you choose the processing time that you wish to use.
Training is always recommended and clients trust a salon that has learned about the specific aspects of the brand they are choosing to utilize from a master.
“This article has been written by Zoe Mitter and produced for Ex-Import Niche Products."